Southern Cuisine Explained, Part 1

Last night, at our church's "Seekers" dinner/fellowship group, the theme was New Orleans/Cajun cooking. It ended up being a bit more generally Southern. A lot of questions came up about Southern cooking such as grits, Frogmore Stew, etc. I'm not from the South (unless you count Hawaii as the southernmost state in the Union), but I have spent a fair amount of time there and I have many friends there. Most influential is the Styers family of Winston-Salem, North Carolina. I spent a week with them during my seminary years and gained 10 pounds in six days eating unbelievably delicious Southern cooking. It was there that I first learned to love chicken and dumplings, fried okra, real fried chicken, and coconut cream pie. So I'm not an authority, but I do love Southern cooking a lot, and here's a little primer on some basics:

1. What are grits? Grits is a corn based side dish that is often served at breakfast, but is also served anytime. The most traditional version is hominy grits, corn that has been soaked in a lye (or other alkaline) solution that removes the hulls, and is stone ground. It is then simmered to reach a porridge-like consistency. Cream of Wheat is a consumer product that looks the most like grits (but isn't the same). As I said, you often hear of grits served at breakfast (remember My Cousin Vinny, where grits were an important part of the defense strategy), but one of the most delicious dishes imaginable is Shrimp and Grits, which I first tasted at the famous Crook's Corner restaurant in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. Bobby Flay also lost a Shrimp and Grits Throwdown in a recent episode.

Here in Hawaii, you can get grits at Denny's in the Windward City Shopping Center.

2. Sweet Potato Pie versus Pumpkin Pie. At the dinner last night, many people mistook a sweet potato pie for pumpkin. Definite differences! I suspect that for Southerners, pumpkin pie is Yankee food, and sweet potato pie is superior. I happen to like both, and it's kind of like comparing apples with pears. They are kind of similar, but definitely different, and usually you are going to prefer one over the other. Or maybe it's just regional/seasonal. With Southern food, I couldn't imagine anything other than a sweet potato pie; but for Thanksgiving, pumpkin.

3. Frogmore Stew. This was served last night as well. No, it doesn't have any frogs in it. I learned that the name comes from the place it originated in South Carolina. It is technically a boil, a soup-like broth with crab boil, Old Bay Seasoning, new potatoes, corn on the cob, shrimp, and smoked sausage. It's terrific - I especially found the combination of the Old Bay based broth with the sweetness of the corn to be wonderful.

4. Louisiana Hotlinks. For many years, I thought Louisiana hotlinks were from Louisiana. Nobody from Louisiana that I've ever met understood what I was talking about. I have received the exact same reaction: confused silence, then the question, "Do you mean Boudin (a brand name) sausage?" No, I replied, I meant something called Louisiana hotlinks. Each person from Louisiana would shake their heads and said there was no such thing. But everyone I knew in Los Angeles knew exactly what I was talking about. Well, a couple of years ago, I saw some at Costco. I looked carefully at the package and learned that it was called Louisiana (Brand) Hotlinks...made in California. Okay, so they aren't authentically Louisiana, but these plump, spicy sausages are my pick over a hot dog or even a Polish dog any day.

5. Country Ham versus City Ham. Okay, we didn't have ham last night, but when I think of the South, especially Virginia, I always think of country ham. It is a salty, flavorful bit of heaven, and served on a biscuit with a slice of bursting ripe tomato, it is one of the world's great delicacies. Smithfield hams must be made from one of the four approved manufacturers around Smithfield. Originally required to be made from peanut fed hogs (as compared to the also superb Italian ham called prosciutto di Parma, which is traditionally made from chestnut fed hogs), country hams are prepared painstakingly and for a period of several months.

City hams, which are what we get most often here in Hawaii, are produced by a far quicker process (days instead of months). The flavor is milder, is usually prepared to be much sweeter, but for me, is generally an inferior product.

The knock on country ham is that it is too salty (this shouldn't be a problem for people from Hawaii, should it?), but my good friend from Virginia says that if you soak the ham in water a couple of times for several hours, up to a couple of days, it will lower the salt content to a palatble level without losing the great flavor. Real country ham is just fabulous. Smithfield hams are the best, but for a milder, less salty ham, consider Williamsburg country ham, originally from another town in Virgina.

As long as we're talking about pork...here's a good one from the internet: if you get an email warning you not to eat tinned pork because of swine flu threats, ignore it. It is....






ready?





SPAM

I welcome your comments.

Grace and aloha,

Tom

P. S. As long as we're talking about the South: former president Jimmy Carter of Georgia has reiterated his break with the Southern Baptist Convention after nearly a lifetime of membership. His dissatisfaction with the Southern Baptist leadership's denial of women to be ordained and the insistence that wives be submissive to their husbands and what Carter believed to be major (and unbiblical) changes to Southern Baptist policies led to the break. Take a look at these links: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=4984885 (this is a breakdown of his initial dissatisfaction in 2005), and http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2009/jul/12/jimmy-carter-womens-rights-equality (his most recent statement). I applaud Mr. Carter for being an alternative (and correct) voice to speak out against using the Good News of Jesus Christ to exercise control and subjugation of people. The Gospel I know is about the grace (unconditional love) and servanthood model of Jesus Christ.

Best Chinese Food on the Windward Side?

I was asked this morning which restaurant had the best Chinese food on the Windward side of Oahu, in Hawaii. I have an incomplete opinion, as I have pretty much settled on two restaurants as having the best. I invite others to respond with their opinions. For example, many people think that Kin Wah restaurant in Kaneohe is the best, but I haven't been there for a long time, so I can't give an informed opinion.

Anyway, I think for everyday Chinese food, my favorite is the New Mui Kwai Chop Suey Restaurant in Kailua: 132 Oneawa St, Kailua, (808) 262-7800 (next to Checker Auto Parts and near the Jack-in-the-Box). The prices are reasonable, and the food is very good. Try the shrimp with crispy garlic (it's not on the menu, but it is on the additional menu items page underneath the glass table tops), anything with black bean sauce, the beef sin choy (sliced beef with a kind of Chinese vegetable prepared in a sour/sweet sauce, vaguely reminiscent of bread pickles, but better), crispy gau gee (long dumplings, deep fried), and the Singapore style noodles (rice noodles in a somewhat spicy, curry based preparation). Note: I am only referring to the Kailua location, as I have not tried the other locations of this small chain.

For a special occasion, Pah Ke's Restaurant in Kaneohe is the place: 46-018 Kamehameha Hwy, Kaneohe, (808) 235-4505. There are really two types of food prepared there: standard Chinese fare and creative, contemporary takes on Chinese food. The thing to focus on is the page that says Hawaiian-Chinese specialties, such as the scallops with deep fried spinach, the asparagus beef, and other great choices. A great off of the menu item is the Chinese "Nachos," which is a bed of seasoned mashed potatoes with deep fried wonton skins, sweet potato chips, etc., and surrounded by triangles of deep fried wonton skins topped with a little guacamole, Chinese roast duck, hoisin sauce, and scallions (you usually have to order these in advance).

The best thing to do is to is to speak to Raymond - the very personable owner - in advance and order a special menu or special dishes. Every time I have done so, it has been fabulous. My niece had her wedding rehearsal dinner there and we got an amazing banquet, with some of the dishes I mentioned above plus others. I will never forget the whole fish served two ways. Even though the wedding reception was at the Halekulani Hotel, and the meal was impeccable, my family members still rave that the Pah Ke's dinner was the most memorable and still ranks among the best meals they have ever had.

Also, don't skip dessert. Raymond was once the pastry chef at the Halekulani and his desserts are truly outstanding. For example, the soy milk custard sounds unappetizing and aimed for the health conscious (which anytime I see health conscious menu items, I usually interpret it as insipid and bland). In Raymond's hands, it is opulent, and absolutely delicious - not to mention vegan, too! But all of his desserts are good (you won't believe what he does with chocolate).

One final note: neither restaurant is very fancy looking, but the food is great, and that's the most important thing.

Grace and aloha,

Tom

P. S. In Acts 2, the writer (Luke) specifies that the early church people focused on four things: Apostles' teaching, prayers, fellowship, and the breaking of bread. To me, that means that eating food with others is spiritual! I definitely agree. After all, the word "companion" means "the one I eat bread with." Or in the case of this post, the one I eat great Chinese food with. I definitely have grown closer to everyone I've eaten with at these restaurants. And after a great dinner in places like this, I just thank God for delicious food - it is unquestionably evidence of God's love for us!

The Jaccard

As I promised, the new approach to this blog will sometimes not resemble a church blog at all (which is part of the idea). It will often focus on my love of food, which I share with most people in the world. This post is an example of that.

Our Wednesday evening church group called the Seekers has kind of morphed (for the summer, at least) into a fellowship/dinner group. I volunteered to bring grilled steak this week.

One of the challenges in feeding a large No. of people (15+) is that steak is pretty expensive. Buying expensive cuts of meat like New York strip, Ribeye, etc., is not possible. But serving tougher cuts of meat is not acceptable.

Happily, I've been using - for some time now - something called a Jaccard meat tenderizer. It is basically a spring loaded device which has 15 thin blades. You stab the meat with the Jaccard all over. The idea is to break up the connective tissue, which makes the meat very tender.

I bought both top sirloin (the cheapest cut in this case) and some tri-tip steak. Both were very tender using the Jaccard. I grilled them using a Weber grill and charcoal (more on grilling in a future post). It ended up costing 1/3 to 1/2 less than more expensive cuts.

Those who live on the island of Oahu should be able to find one at the Compleat Kitchen. You can also find it online at Amazon.com. One of the church people (who always looks for a better deal), saw it cheaper on EBay. I have the 15 blade one with a black handle. There is a 45 blade version (with three rows of blades) which is more expensive, but might be worth it, as you triple the "Jaccarding" with the same effort as the 15 blade version.

Happy "Jaccarding"!

Grace and aloha,

Tom

P. S. In honor of a post dedicated to meat, I share a poem by George Herbert, which is an invitation to sit at the table of God (portrayed by Herbert as love). The person invited keeps giving excuses, not feeling worthy enough to come to the table. One thing about God: we are always invited and are always loved.

"Love Bade Me Welcome" by George Herbert

Love bade me welcome, yet my soul drew back,
Guilty of dust and sin.
But quick-ey'd Love, observing me grow slack
From my first entrance in,
Drew nearer to me, sweetly questioning
If I lack'd anything.

"A guest," I answer'd, "worthy to be here";
Love said, "You shall be he."
"I, the unkind, the ungrateful? ah my dear,
I cannot look on thee."
Love took my hand and smiling did reply,
"Who made the eyes but I?"

"Truth, Lord, but I have marr'd them; let my shame
Go where it doth deserve."
"And know you not," says Love, "who bore the blame?"
"My dear, then I will serve."
"You must sit down," says Love, "and taste my meat."
So I did sit and eat.

A New Blog Approach

Needless to say, it's been a long time since my last blog post. I've decided to take a different approach to the blog and talk about a number of subjects...as Rob Bell, one of the most popular Christian preachers says (among others): everything is spiritual. So this blog will focus on different things, sometimes with a more specific spiritual reference, and sometimes much less so.

The new title of the blog reflects my new approach. Those who know me are well aware of how much I love food. So a lot of times, I will talk about food that I've actually eaten.

But I will also talk about things that are just food for thought: trivial things, how-to ideas, commentary, etc. Hopefully, I will tie it all up with something that leads us just a little bit closer to the divine.

Anyway...glad to be back blogging.

Grace and aloha,

Tom